topic Re: Device MAC ID in Fibre

Device MAC ID

VicF47 — Wed, 01 Feb 2023 13:40:34 GMT

Hi ! I have been a TT customer for several years and currently have a Fibre65 contract.

When I run a speed test on TT website I get 77 Mbps at the router, but when I run a test on the devices I get less than optimal performance. Before I look at trying to improve performance I need to identify the devices. Several of the devices are identified only by what I think is the MAC ID, e.g. "48:9E:BD:C3:E6:CB". In that spefic case I have been able to identify that as my recently installed printer, but the remaining items in the list are a mystery and do not match the MAC ID of likley devices, e.g. iPhones, IPad, Android pad, etc. At some point in the past I was able to label devices with names that meant something to me - some of those are still displayed (others are redundant/removed), but I cannot now find a way in to edit the labelling.

Q1> How do I match the MAC ID with the physical device?

Q2> Is it possible to edit the labelling of the devices with names that mean something as opposed to the MAC ID

TIA Vic

Re: Device MAC ID

KeithFrench — Wed, 01 Feb 2023 16:34:58 GMT

That MAC address is from an HP device.

You can edit device names with your router, but I don't think you can via MyConnection.

The devices that are slower than they should be, are they wired (Ethernet) connected to the router or wireless?

Re: Device MAC ID

VicF47 — Wed, 01 Feb 2023 19:47:40 GMT

Hi Keith,

Thanks for your response. Yes you are correct the MAC address quoted is my HP Envy Inspire 7200e printer.

Not sure how to go about editing device names via router, but that can wait for the moment - I have other fish to fry that you may be able to help with but that will be a separate post.

All the devices that are slower are wireless and the speeds vary from 3 Mbps (with I think is a temporary state since I have seem it for different devices at different times when at other times those devices show higher speeds. The average speeds across devices tend to be between 40 & 50 Mbps. I am not sure whether this is a 'transmisson' problem or simply reflects that my main devices (laptop & desktop PC) are 10 years old and more and probably need replacing.

However, I am putting this on the back burner for a while: two days ago we had full fibre installed, but ever since then I have not been able to get internet access. The TT service agents gave me all sorts of *@#][!![]'#[@#]!* and bull stories about waiting 11 hours and then turning the router off for 20 minutes and then restarting it. None of that worked and evetually the agent said " disconnect the router from the full fibre box and connect the broadband socket on the router to the BT master socket. When I did that I got my internet connection back (hence this message). Then earlier today I got an SMS from TT saying that they could see that my new full fibre installation was not connected and sent me a link to the set up page. I followed that but it didn't work - still a solid amber light on the router. So my next move is to try and sort that out and then I will come back to the device issues.

Re: Device MAC ID

KeithFrench — Thu, 02 Feb 2023 08:17:36 GMT

No problems, I will get back to you later today. Which make/model of router do you have?

Re: Device MAC ID

Anonymous — Thu, 02 Feb 2023 08:20:58 GMT

Hello,

Thanks @KeithFrench 🙂

I've also just posted on your other topic.

Thanks

Re: Device MAC ID

KeithFrench — Thu, 02 Feb 2023 11:05:32 GMT

Hi @VicF47

Having had a chance to read through your last post now, it would seem that the new future fibre upgrade did not complete, as you are still connected via the master socket. I can see that @Anonymous has picked up your other thread about this & is waiting on your input on that.

Back to this thread, I can help with the wireless issues, it is probably not the PC & laptop themselves being old that is the problem (unless running a non-longer supported version of Windows), but their wireless network adapters that will be out of date I expect.

Slow speed, intermittent dropouts, breaks in the signal, no signal on some or all devices or no internet access might be caused by Wi-Fi interference from other local networks, which can also lead to a permanent reduction in speed. No ISP can be responsible for your local environment, this is mainly a byproduct of the popularity of Wi-Fi.

Generally speaking, the 2.4GHz band suffers much more from interference than the 5GHz band, but the 2.4GHz one can sometimes have a better range, but this all depends on your local area.

If you would like me to help you, please can you specify the make/model of TalkTalk router that you are using?

Re: Device MAC ID

VicF47 — Thu, 02 Feb 2023 15:45:43 GMT

Hi Keith, Thanks for your response and kind offer.

The router is a Sagecom ver: FAST FS364-3 T8.

Your comments seem to suggest that the environment might be the key issue and certainly the physical location of devices is not ideal. I live in a 1930s house with 9" solid brick walls and brick internal walls rather brick-block cavity walls and stud partitioning. I also have a couple of other devices that need to be wired to the router. Cable management is a bit of an issue so evrything is hidden away in a cabinet which is probably not ideal. Furthermore when I use the laptop although the router is less than 5m away there is a solid brick wall between them. My office is upstairs and on the wrong side of a 9" wall so I seem to have broken every rule in terms of locating the router!

Having said that, the laptop performance does not increase significantly if I position it directly by the router.

Picking up ypur point about the wireless network adapters, I have just suprosed myself whentrying to answer a question about the full fibre connection. I thought that the internal wireless adapter card had failed some time ago and I have been using a Netgear USB plug-in wirelss adaptor, but I have just removed it and was still able to connect wirelessly so the card obviously works - I got a speed at the device of 45 Mbps which is only slightly less than I was getting yesterday using the plug-in. Likewise my desktop computer - I use an ASUS plug in device.

Regards, Vic

Re: Device MAC ID

KeithFrench — Thu, 02 Feb 2023 15:54:52 GMT

If you have the router shut away in a cupboard, that will certainly be no good. Before getting into WiFi interference, which isn't just about walls etc, these are my guidelines about router location, in case anything can be improved. Then when things are as good as they are going to get (even if that ends up meaning there is no change), I'll help with WiFi interference.

This is the best router location, but obviously, this is not always practical & a compromise has to be reached.

The general rule is to keep it away from:-

Cordless phone (DECT) base stations
TVs
Loudspeakers & any sub-woofers (including those used with a PC)
Computer monitors
Electrical appliances – they often transmit their own signals that can interfere with Wi-Fi signals.
Bluetooth devices – they operate on the same Wi-Fi frequency as your broadband, which can cause signal problems.
Mirrors – they actually reflect Wi-Fi signals, stopping them from passing through walls and reflecting them back into the room.
Anything containing large amounts of water – things like fish tanks and boilers can absorb Wi-Fi signals like a sponge.
Large metal objects – radiators, for instance, will have the same effect on your Wi-Fi as mirrors. If you have a tower PC case with an internal WiFi card, the metal of the case can block signals to & from the antennae if they are located behind the tower case.
If you are using a USB Wi-Fi adapter, use a USB socket on the front of the PC, as there is more open space around it than at the rear. If a USB extension cable is used, try to ensure that it is fairly short, so as the power from the computer is not attenuated. Long extension cables can cause the adapter to not have enough power from the computer to work correctly.

As a very general rule, the signal travels best on the same floor as the router and to the floor below. It does not always propagate very well to a floor above the router. However, with more modern routers, if they have a higher specification, they may be able to get the signal upstairs OK, but your ability to receive it also depends on your device's network adapter being of a higher specification, as well as its age.

Where USB or PCIe-connected WiFi adapters are concerned, power management is best disabled if running in Windows to keep a reliable Wi-Fi connection working at full speed. Once having made the changes outlined below, it is probably best to restart the PC.

To do this in Windows 10 or 11, open Device Manager and expand Network adapters. Then right-click your WiFi card & select Properties. Next, click on the Power Management tab and untick Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power. If the adapter is connected via USB, then expand the USB section in Device Manager and the same option can be found in the Power Management tab in most Root Hubs and USB Controllers. Untick it in there as well.

Re: Device MAC ID

VicF47 — Thu, 02 Feb 2023 20:57:05 GMT

Thanks Keith,

I have heard most of this before, but achieving it is difficult.

The cupboard issue doesn't seem to make a difference to the laptop, at least. Speed at the device varies throught the day from about 45 to 50 Mbps. Taking the router out of the cabinet and placing the laptop close up doesn't seem to show any significant improvement. By the way laptop is still running 64bit OS Windows 7 Home Premium + SP1

The phone issue is interesting. How far away should the base station be (bearing in mind that I have a pre-filtered BT Master Socket that has sockets for the phone line and the broadband)? Does the base station actually need to be plugged in to the master socket itself. I have an upstairs extension wired into the Master Socket (i.e. hard wired not plug-in cable) and plugging in the base station to the extension appears to work.
No TV in same room as router (but D-Link for TV signal plugged in to router)
No loudspeakers nearby
No computer monitors nearby
No other electrical appliances nearby (except temporarily - vacuum cleaner, etc.)
No Bluetooth devices nearby
Mirrors - that could be an issue - high level, facing router approx 2m away and above router.
No fishtanks, etc.,
Radiator just below mirror so 2m away from router.
USB Wireless Adaptors:
LAPTOP: Everything I said about Plug-in USB Wireless adaptor for laptop is rubbish. Just checked device manager and the Netgear A6150 USB 2.0 device is Disabled! Intel Centrino (R) N100 is "working properly". Does this need to have the Power Management adjusted so that the device is not turned off? Device manager also shows Microsoft Virtual WiFi Mini Adaptor & Adaptor #2 - not sure what these are for but both are shown as working properly - could there be an issue with conflicts?
OFFICE DESKTOP: (Windows 10) has ASUS USB-AC56 802.11ac wireless adaptor enabled and working properly. This plugs into a USB socket at rear of 'mini tower' format and has a lead (about 1m long) so that the receiver, with and adjustable aerial can sit on top of the PC 'in open air'. There is no Power Management tab in the Properties sheet for this device. Also shown is a Realtek RTL8188CE Wireless LAN 802,11n PCI-E NIC which is also shown as working properly. Again no Power Management tab for this device. The USB Root Hubs are self powered with options.

So, I have moved the phone, placed the router outside the cabinet, updated the power management for the Wireless adaptor in the Laptop, rebooted and run a speed test. In the 'usual' location with the wall, mirror and radiator between the laptop and router I got 77 Mbps at the router and 47 Mbps at the device. I moved the laptop to between the wall/radiator/mirror and the router and got 41 Mbps! (first attempt), 32 Mbps (2nd attempt) and 31 Mbps (third attempt), but I am not convinced that these are true - it took a very long time for the results to come up, so is there a processing issue with the laptop? Itried running the speed test from my desktop and it recorded a speed at the laptop of 43 Mbps and at the desktop PC at 61 Mbps which is labels as "Working as Expected".

In running these test I notice that on the web page where it usually displays my home phone number it now also shows an FTTP number - so I am going to look at that aspect next.

Regards, Vic

Re: Device MAC ID

KeithFrench — Fri, 03 Feb 2023 10:51:51 GMT

Hi Vic,

No, the phone base station does not have to be in the master socket, it can be in any socket. If you have finally gone over to FTTP, the 5364 won't allow the phone to be connected to the new FTTP at all. For that, you need either the Hub 2 (5464), where it plugs into the phone port on the back (covered with tape to start with) or the Eero router and Grandstream ATA, either of which TalkTalk should have supplied. If you get the choice I would go for the Hub 2. Just try & keep the base station then so that is not right next to the router.

The desktop PC where the USB attached WiFi network adapters do not have a Power Management tab, makes me think you are not using the correcting drivers for them.

I wouldn't worry about the mirrors or radiator, as they are a reasonable distance from the router. This then leaves WiFi interference to be checked.

I will PM you a link for a guide of mine on Wi-Fi interference & initially look at the section called "Are you suffering from interference – prove it first". This section includes full details of Wi-Fi analysers that I recommend for Windows, Windows phone, Android and Apple operating systems. However, I have no way of testing the Apple product. Do not worry about interpreting the results, I will do that for you.

Please post the screenshots that I have requested in my guide (no photos please they can be difficult to read as text can get out of focus when zoomed in), from the analyser you are using (also in my attached guide). Please ensure that the analyser window is maximised (if Windows) before taking the screenshots & upload them via the "Insert Photos" button (in a mobile browser it's the picture icon) on the post editor's toolbar with the Size parameter set to Large. If they are too small, I will not be able to read them & although I can enlarge them, this puts the text out of focus. If you prefer PM them to me. If you do PM me, then please add a link in there to this thread, so that I can find it easily.

Re: Device MAC ID

VicF47 — Fri, 03 Feb 2023 19:24:51 GMT

Hi Keith,

Thanks for the feedback.

Yes, we are now live with the FTTP, but not without issues. There appears to be a fault on the line which TT are progressing. This appears to be affecting my transmission speeds and may be why the speeds I recorded last night were so low. I need to wait for TT to sort this out and say the issue is complete before delving any further.

Thanks for confirming about the phone base station which is now located upstairs in my office well away from the router. However, your comments about pluging in to the router raise a couple of interesting points. Fisrtly, the CityFibre engineer did not remove or even disconnect any of the pre-existing cableing. Now that FTTP appears to be up and running I have disconnected the cabelling from the BT Master socket to the Router. The only thing attached to the BT Master socket now is the phone extension cable which is hard wired into the box. Secondly, you seem to be implying that TT should have supplied me with a different router. I am still using the black Sagecom device that I have been using for the past few years (I take it that this what you mean by the 5364.) TT have not sent me any other router for use with FTTP. Do I need one oris the 5364 adequate?

Re: wireless adaptor and power management: I will check the driver situation and let you know.

Re: WiFi Interference, I have found your PM and followed the link to download the guide. I will take me a while to go through that, but I will get back to you later.

Many Thanks for your help

Regards Vic (by the way had you cottoned on to the fact that my surname is the same as yours!)

Re: Device MAC ID

VicF47 — Fri, 03 Feb 2023 20:51:57 GMT

Hi Keith,

Power management issue solved. I had forgotton that the desktop PC was originally purchased for my wife to use and she is set up as the Adminstrator. Although I have administrator rights (??) when I opened device manager to look at the properties of the adaptor it does not give a Power Management tab, but when I logged in as my wife the tab became visible. So I have now set the option so that the PC is not allowed to turn off the device.

I wonder if this is the issue with Netspot. It looks as though the Free Edition was only installed for me as the User, No short cut on wife's desktop and searching for it only brought up an installation option for the full version, so I will reinstall the free edition as Administrator and see if that works.

Regards, Vic

Re: Device MAC ID

KeithFrench — Fri, 03 Feb 2023 21:57:52 GMT

Currently, I do not think that City Fibre supports VoIP, although it was due to by now. The phone line may stay over the old line for the time being. That said, I have seen a thread saying that they do now support it.

You should have been provided with a new router, although the 5364 will work, when your phone line moves over to VoIP over the FTTP, you will need that. Probably best to start a new thread to query that.

Re: Device MAC ID

KeithFrench — Tue, 07 Feb 2023 13:02:43 GMT

I am currently dealing with @VicF47 with analyser screenshots etc. @Anonymous @Debbie-TalkTalk @Karl-TalkTalk please can one of you disable WiFi Optimisation on this router?

Re: Device MAC ID

Karl-TalkTalk — Tue, 07 Feb 2023 13:07:11 GMT

Hi @KeithFrench

Optimisation should be off now.

Karl.

Re: Device MAC ID

KeithFrench — Tue, 07 Feb 2023 13:12:04 GMT

Thanks @Karl-TalkTalk

Re: Device MAC ID

VicF47 — Sun, 12 Feb 2023 15:22:38 GMT

Hi Keith,

Thanks for all your help regading Wireless Interference and getting my system optimised.

I now have as good connection speeds as I can hope for with current TalkTalk package, but there remains one issue in my mind concerning Signal Strength.

My desktop PC is not in the ideal position relative to the router and although I have a connection with good speeds the WLAN manager shows only 2 bars signal strength. How relevant is this?. Does it indicate the possibility of dropping the connection? Is there any potential benefit in using a WiFi Booster/Range Extender?

Regards,

Vic

Re: Device MAC ID

KeithFrench — Sun, 12 Feb 2023 15:34:43 GMT

Hi @VicF47

Where signal strength is concerned yes some form of extender or even better a mesh network would help. However, with a mesh, each node within the mesh must be positioned where it can receive a good enough signal from the router (now part of the mesh). Extenders can be OK, but because the connection back to the router is via powerline technology, both units must be connected to the same electrical ring circuit. TalkTalk used to market one of these, but it has been discontinued in favour of the newer product mentioned below.

It might interest you to know, that TalkTalk has launched a new product which they are calling the "Sagemcom F@ST 266 Wi-Fi Booster". This is a clever unit, when combined with the Sagemcom F@ST 5364 or 5464 (Wi-Fi Hub 2) routers, it forms a mesh network. This improves the WiFi coverage within a property, thus boosting the signal strength.

You can currently purchase one from Customer Services, or by buying directly from the TalkTalk store. However, as yet it is not advertised in the store for some reason.

I have been using one for quite a few months now and am very impressed with it.

Re: Device MAC ID

VicF47 — Sun, 12 Feb 2023 20:04:28 GMT

Hello, Keith

Thanks for your comments about extending my network.

A few years ago I did buy an extender kit. The TT product was unavailable at the time so I purchased a tp-Link AV 600 extender kit. As you say in your post it works on powerline technology and although I followed the Quick Set-up Guide looking at the user manual on their web site this evening I am not entirely convinced that I completed the set up. I got the varoius green light on the extender OK and it showed up in the Wireless adaptor manager, but I seem to recall that it used the same SSID as the router.

There certainly appeared to be an improvement in the signal strength shown in the manager, but I started to get various 'conflicts' as though the pc and printer didn't know whether to connect to the router or the extender. Every time I wanted to print a document, Windows told me the printer was offline and I ended up going through all sorts of troubleshooting procedures to get it online again. This usually involved cycling the power on the pronter and restarting the router.- usually the print queue was then processed.

I later discovered that somehow I had managed to get duplicate copies of the printer and with hindsight probably all I need to do was select the copy of the printer that was actually online! I never discovered whether this was anything to do with the extender or not, but when trying to remove the duplicate copy of the printer I came across a recommendation not to attached the printer to an extender. I am not sure that I was trying so to do but to avoid any issues I disconnected both the powerline adaptor and extender, if only to se what difference it made. About this time I upgraded my TalkTalk package, the printer power unit failed and I replaced the whole printer and I forgot all about connectivity issues until the recent problems following the future fibre upgrade.

Are you familiar with the tp-Link AV 600 (TL PA4010 powerline adaptor and TL-WPA4220 extender)? Do you think it worth trying to re-install the kit? Can you offer any advice or things to watch out for?

Regards,

Vic

Re: Device MAC ID

VicF47 — Sun, 12 Feb 2023 20:08:44 GMT

Hi Keith,

I forgot to mention in previous post that I also use D-Link Powerline adaptors with the TalkTalk TV. I take it that this should not conflict with the tp-link kit since both have wired connections to router. Also I note that the Tp-link device want to work on 2.4GHz. Does this have any impact on the fact that I have optimized the wireless adaptors to use the 5 GHz band?

Vic