If it was down to me I would have replaced your router at the start.   Alas the default settings in a router are not always the best. However, until I see what is happening to your WiFi network via my diagnostics, I do not know how your router is configured.   ... View more

Hi @Elgin19    I am just about to send you a PM. ... View more

Hi @Billx    I am afraid you are wrong. The Sagemcom FAST 5364 (Wi-Fi Hub 1) has never been provided for FF500. Previously, the eero Pro 6, not the eero 6, has been supplied with FF500. It is now the Wi-Fi Hub 3 (Sagemcom FAST5359) as per my previous post. ... View more

Hi @Bella2025 & @nambuso-TT    You are using a 40 MHz channel bandwidth on your router, which you should never do. This is because, without getting technical (I will willingly do so if you require), you are using up 9 out of the 11 available channels. This means that other networks will interfere with you, plus you are causing interference for every other router in the 2.4GHz band in your area. This not only slows you down but also everyone else trying to use this band.   If you log into your HG635 & go to:-   Home Network > Wireless Settings > Advanced Settings   Then, under 2.4GHz Frequency band, set .11n bandwidth to 20MHz only.   Moving on from that, your 2.4GHz signal is varying in signal strength quite a bit, with some particular drops at 21:32 & 21:33, I don't know if these times coincide with your problems. However, I expect that with you using a 40MHz vchannel bandwidth, this is the most likely cause of these drops. However, I can't be certain without another snapshot when/if you have problems with the router set to 20MHz only. ... View more

Hi @Elgin19    In answer to your questions:-   The Wi-Fi Hub 3 is the current router supplied with all Full Fibre packages from FF150 up, so yes, you should be supplied with one. The Wi-Fi Hub 3 has a built-in DVA, so you just plug your landline phone into the Phone port on the back, just like the Wi-Fi Hub 2 before it. However, you may have to wait for its firmware to update to V4A00 before this works. It should update within a few minutes of being connected OK. Its model number is the Sagemcom FAST5359.  It is also fully compatible with the Sagemcom FAST266 Wi-Fi booster, which combines with the 5359 to form a Wi-Fi 6 mesh, should you require it. From my personal experience, though, the Wi-Fi coverage is a bit better than the eero 6, but every property can be different. ... View more

Hi @Bella2025    Thanks for these, I will have a look a bit later this morning & get back to you. ... View more

Hi @MickL    With that type of UPS with a 12V DC connection, it is more complex to make the correct choice. It is much simpler to choose the type that has UK mains power outlets on it. The first thing is the power connector; without a micrometre, it is difficult to know the size. This article does inform how to measure it:-   https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/59595/how-can-i-tell-the-size-of-a-barrel-power-connector    Then the polarity must be considered, get that wrong & you will probably permanently damage the router.   It is far easier & safer to go down the route of a UPS with UK power outlets on it. If you have full fibre, then you would also need to connect the ONT to it, as well as the base station of any DECT phone system & possibly a Grandstream DVA (OK, I know the latter two are not Wi-Fi). Perhaps you would also need to add a PC or other mains-powered devices to the list.   What you buy would be down to you, as only you know how long you want the internal batteries in the UPS to last during a power cut. This is often specified in the unit's VA rating.   ... View more

Hi @RehanQ    Which make/model of router do you have?   Wi-Fi interference (nothing to do with electrical interference) can cause:- Slow speed, intermittent dropouts, breaks in the signal, no signal at all, or no internet access. This can affect one or more devices. This can also lead to a permanent reduction in the speed of one or more devices. No ISP can be responsible for your local environment; this is mainly a byproduct of the popularity of Wi-Fi. However, other factors should be investigated first. When this happens, what are the lights showing on the front of the router? Do you have any wired connections & if so, how do they perform? Generally speaking, the 2.4GHz band suffers far more from Wi-Fi interference than the much faster 5GHz band. However, the 2.4GHz band has a longer range than the 5GHz band and can penetrate walls better. This may very well change depending on your local area. In other words, I offer a free, impartial analysis of your Wi-Fi network and will try to help you optimise your Wi-Fi connection. The next stage involves my sending out a guide to help you get important diagnostic information for me. I will then analyse these results for you and recommend changes to your router configuration, if required. I only send this out to people who request it.       The information below is provided by TalkTalk. For confirmation, please contact @Lorrainef, the manager of the TalkTalk support staff on this forum. KeithFrench is one of our valued Community Stars and can help with a range of issues related to wireless and networking. At times, he may ask you to send him test results via a Private Message to help analyse/diagnose an issue. Although Keith does not work for TalkTalk, he very kindly shares his time and knowledge to help others. If you need further help or if we need to take any details such as personal information about your account, like phone numbers, account numbers, etc, one of the TalkTalk team will jump in and help out. ... View more

That all sounds like a line fault to me. I have asked one of TalkTalk's support team to pick up your thread and investigate it for you. They aim to respond within 48 hours (Monday - Friday), excluding Bank Holidays, but if more urgent, you can always try the Service Centre on 0345 172 0088. The posts are responded to in time/date order, oldest first. To save yourself time, please make sure that your community profile includes your first & last names, broadband phone number (TalkTalk Phone or Account number box )and, if possible, an alternative contact number. This can be done by clicking on your Avatar picture and then clicking on "My Settings" followed by:- Personal Profile > Personal Information Otherwise, TalkTalk will not be able to tie up your forum username to your broadband account. Only you & TalkTalk have visibility of your details. ... View more

No @ferguson, still on 150 at the moment, but have been dealing in depth with others who are. ... View more

For the money, it is a no-brainer - the Hub 3 & FAST266 Booster. I have fully tested these & think that they are pretty good. To contact the Better Value Team (old Legacy Dept), please call:  0345 1725157.  Opening hours:- Monday to Friday 09:00 to 19:00 Saturday 09:00 to 18:00 Sunday Closed ... View more

Hi @dobbor11    You shouldn't mix eeros & Hub 3s, one or the other. By eero 6+, what do you mean: the eero 6 as supplied originally with FF150, the eero Pro 6 supplied with FF500 & above, or another eero model? I have seen that if you have multiple eero 6's on FF500 & 900, the backhaul (connection between the two units) does not seem fast enough; you would probably have to use an Ethernet backhaul. That is reasonable, because TalkTalk used to supply the eero Pro 6 for this.   The Hub 3 can be extended with the Sagemcom FAST 266 WiFi Booster; however, the name does not do it justice. It combines with the Hub 3 to form a Wi-Fi 6 mesh & I think it is a very good solution. These are, I think, still available for £30 plus delivery from their Better Value Team.   Your problems may well be caused by too much Wi-Fi interference & I can help a lot with that.   Just for reference:-   To answer this requires both a long & complex reply, so no apologies for this. The Full Fibre 500 or 900 packages often mean that customers do not achieve the speeds they expect (obviously around 500 or 900Mbps). Firstly, you typically do not need the fastest speed possible on just one device, but rather enough speed to accomplish your tasks without compromising performance across all devices. As an example:- Up to 15Mbps – basic online activities such as web browsing, emails and watching low-resolution videos. 15-50Mbps – HD video streaming and managing a small number of smart devices in the home. 50-100Mbps – 4K video streaming on one or two devices, online gaming, and supporting a limited number of smart devices in the home. 100Mbps or more – 4K video streaming on multiple devices and supporting a good number of smart devices around the home. However, I can help you achieve the fastest speeds possible on your devices. This is often not an issue with the design of these services, but rather the connection between these devices and the router. Your device must not be connected to the 2.4GHz Wi-Fi band; otherwise, it will never deliver such speeds. No other devices must be in use at the time of any speed tests, because Wi-Fi is a shared medium. This means that it works half-duplex (one direction at a time), device A transmits and receives its data separately. Then it is the turn of device B, followed by C, etc. The Wi-Fi network adapters in these devices often cannot deliver speeds as fast as the fibre service can. Take the example of some older Wi-Fi 5 (802.11ac) adapters, which might work at speeds up to 433Mbps only if used in a perfect wireless environment, which most homes are not. When an internet speed test is performed, the speed achieved is down to the slowest link in the chain, namely the 433Mbps Wi-Fi adapter. Speed tests in this case might achieve somewhere around 400Mbps or less. Older Ethernet connections can suffer as well. If a device only supports the 10/100Mbps standard, not 1000Mbps (1Gbps) or even the newer 2.5Gbps available on some desktop PCs, they are likely to only record 100Mbps on a speed test. To get close to the 500/900Mbps on a speed test, that device must either have a minimum of a 1Gbps Ethernet connection or, if wireless, a faster Wi-Fi adapter. This would be a higher specification Wi-Fi 5 (802.11ac) or Wi-Fi 6 (802.11ax) adapter. While Wi-Fi 6 is not designed to boost download speeds significantly, the new features will allow more connected devices. That said, faster speeds (up to 2.4Gbps) will be available if the environmental conditions in your property allow the use of a 160MHz channel bandwidth. Using 160MHz requires a very clean RF spectrum — a wide contiguous block without DFS radar activity or interference. To fully understand this requires detailed knowledge of channel allocation for it to work; otherwise, the router will fall back to an 80MHz channel bandwidth. Simply enabling 160MHz in the AP configuration is nowhere near enough. Currently, this means that it is very unlikely to work in the 5GHz Wi-Fi band, as all 160MHz channels cross into the DFS channel range (52 - 140); only the 6GHz band with Wi-Fi 6E or Wi-Fi 7 can be used. I would not recommend using multiple eero 6 units on the FF500 or 900 services. TalkTalk, before supplying the Wi-Fi Hub 3 for these packages, used to provide the eero Pro 6 for them. One reason is that the eero Pro 6 is tri-band (1 x 2.4GHz and 2 x 5GHz Wi-Fi bands), allowing the backhaul network (connection between eeros) to maintain a faster speed. The eero 6 would therefore probably need an Ethernet-connected backhaul rather than using wireless, if it is required to use these slower, dual-band eeros. It may also not switch data fast enough for the increased speed of these packages. There are some basic checks that you can do to ensure that your devices have the best chance of achieving these higher speeds:- Check that these devices are connected to the 5GHz Wi-Fi band, not the 2.4GHz band. If you have the eero Pro 6, then as many devices as possible should be using the 5GHz (High) band. Which eero Pro 6 (if applicable) is each device connected to? It should always be the gateway or closest/fastest extender node. The more extender nodes that you go through to get to the gateway, the slower the speed will always be. In fact, you will probably need to be connected to the gateway to have any chance of these speeds. Additionally, with the eero Pro 6, any device capable of a 2402Mbps link speed must be connected to the 5GHz (High) Wi-Fi band and use a 160MHz channel bandwidth, which is very unlikely to work due to environmental conditions. The 5GHz (Low) band is not as high a specification as the 5GHz (High) one. To aid with step 2 (again for eeros), is "Client Steering" enabled within the eero app, as well as "Local DNS Caching"? Have you checked for Wi-Fi interference, a topic that I can provide a lot of help with? ... View more

Hi @dobbor11    No problem at all. I will be glad to help you, please @mention me in to your new thread. ... View more

Hi @dobbor11    If you want help, you cannot use someone else's thread. To get help, you must start your own thread. To create your own thread, go to the main page for the board in question & click the "Start a topic" button. TalkTalk insists on one thread per problem per customer. Please note, TalkTalk makes the rules, not me.   Please also note the advice that I have given to @Steveowen1000. Thanks. ... View more

Hi @Mandisa-TT    This is an old bug with this ancient HG633 router. When used with a WiFi extender, if the device is connected to the extender's WiFi, rather than the router's WiFi, port forwarding will fail to work. This is because instead of forwarding the port to the device's IP address like any other router, it forwards it to the device's MAC address. The only resolution to this is to change the router to a different model. ... View more

Hi @Steveowen1000    To answer this requires both a long & complex reply, so no apologies for this. The Full Fibre 500 or 900 packages often mean that customers do not achieve the speeds they expect (obviously around 500 or 900Mbps). Firstly, you typically do not need the fastest speed possible on just one device, but rather enough speed to accomplish your tasks without compromising performance across all devices. As an example:- Up to 15Mbps – basic online activities such as web browsing, emails and watching low-resolution videos. 15-50Mbps – HD video streaming and managing a small number of smart devices in the home. 50-100Mbps – 4K video streaming on one or two devices, online gaming, and supporting a limited number of smart devices in the home. 100Mbps or more – 4K video streaming on multiple devices and supporting a good number of smart devices around the home. However, I can help you achieve the fastest speeds possible on your devices. This is often not an issue with the design of these services, but rather the connection between these devices and the router. Your device must not be connected to the 2.4GHz Wi-Fi band; otherwise, it will never deliver such speeds. No other devices must be in use at the time of any speed tests, because Wi-Fi is a shared medium. This means that it works half-duplex (one direction at a time), device A transmits and receives its data separately. Then it is the turn of device B, followed by C, etc. The Wi-Fi network adapters in these devices often cannot deliver speeds as fast as the fibre service can. Take the example of some older Wi-Fi 5 (802.11ac) adapters, which might work at speeds up to 433Mbps only if used in a perfect wireless environment, which most homes are not. When an internet speed test is performed, the speed achieved is down to the slowest link in the chain, namely the 433Mbps Wi-Fi adapter. Speed tests in this case might achieve somewhere around 400Mbps or less. Older Ethernet connections can suffer as well. If a device only supports the 10/100Mbps standard, not 1000Mbps (1Gbps) or even the newer 2.5Gbps available on some desktop PCs, they are likely to only record 100Mbps on a speed test. To get close to the 500/900Mbps on a speed test, that device must either have a minimum of a 1Gbps Ethernet connection or, if wireless, a faster Wi-Fi adapter. This would be a higher specification Wi-Fi 5 (802.11ac) or Wi-Fi 6 (802.11ax) adapter. While Wi-Fi 6 is not designed to boost download speeds significantly, the new features will allow more connected devices. That said, faster speeds (up to 2.4Gbps) will be available if the environmental conditions in your property allow the use of a 160MHz channel bandwidth. Using 160MHz requires a very clean RF spectrum — a wide contiguous block without DFS radar activity or interference. To fully understand this requires detailed knowledge of channel allocation for it to work; otherwise, the router will fall back to an 80MHz channel bandwidth. Simply enabling 160MHz in the AP configuration is nowhere near enough. Currently, this means that it is very unlikely to work in the 5GHz Wi-Fi band, as all 160MHz channels cross into the DFS channel range (52 - 140); only the 6GHz band with Wi-Fi 6E or Wi-Fi 7 can be used. I would not recommend using multiple eero 6 units on the FF500 or 900 services. TalkTalk, before supplying the Wi-Fi Hub 3 for these packages, used to provide the eero Pro 6 for them. One reason is that the eero Pro 6 is tri-band (1 x 2.4GHz and 2 x 5GHz Wi-Fi bands), allowing the backhaul network (connection between eeros) to maintain a faster speed. The eero 6 would therefore probably need an Ethernet-connected backhaul rather than using wireless, if it is required to use these slower, dual-band eeros. It may also not switch data fast enough for the increased speed of these packages. There are some basic checks that you can do to ensure that your devices have the best chance of achieving these higher speeds:- Check that these devices are connected to the 5GHz Wi-Fi band, not the 2.4GHz band. If you have the eero Pro 6, then as many devices as possible should be using the 5GHz (High) band. Which eero Pro 6 (if applicable) is each device connected to? It should always be the gateway or closest/fastest extender node. The more extender nodes that you go through to get to the gateway, the slower the speed will always be. In fact, you will probably need to be connected to the gateway to have any chance of these speeds. Additionally, with the eero Pro 6, any device capable of a 2402Mbps link speed must be connected to the 5GHz (High) Wi-Fi band and use a 160MHz channel bandwidth, which is very unlikely to work due to environmental conditions. The 5GHz (Low) band is not as high a specification as the 5GHz (High) one. To aid with step 2 (again for eeros), is "Client Steering" enabled within the eero app, as well as "Local DNS Caching"? Have you checked for Wi-Fi interference, a topic that I can provide a lot of help with? ... View more

Hi @JamesyD1    You can easily see which WiFi band any of your devices are connected to via the eero app. Find the device via the Devices tab and then go to the Device Details screen. In there, look at the Connection section. It is not the eero (or any other router) that selects which band a device connects to; it is the device in question that makes that decision. It does this based on signal quality from the router (a mixture of signal strength & how much Wi-Fi interference is on that band. This is a topic that I can help with a lot if you want.   Most people find they get a better Wi-Fi coverage with two eeros, rather than one. I personally prefer the new WiFi Hub 3, which can also form a mesh network with the Sagemcom FAST 266 WiFi Booster. As to which you should have is nothing to do with me, it is between yourself & TalkTalk.   You can easily add extra Ethernet ports to the eero by purchasing a cheap Gigabit network switch. This is not a recommendation, but an example:-   TP-Link TL-SG105S 5 Port Gigabit Ethernet Network Switch, Ethernet Splitter 1 to 4, Network 4 Way Ethernet Hub, Desktop & Wall-Mounting, Sturdy Metal Case, Fanless, Plug & Play, Energy-Saving : Amazon.co.uk: Computers & AccessoriesTP-Link TL-SG105S 5 Port Gigabit Ethernet Network Switch, Ethernet Splitter 1 to 4, Network 4 Way Ethernet Hub, Desktop & Wall-Mounting, Sturdy Metal Case, Fanless, Plug & Play, Energy-Saving : Amazon.co.uk: Computers & Accessories   The location of the eero is absolutely vital. The gateway mesh, or standalone router, connects directly to the ONT (assuming Full Fibre), but does not have to be located near it. The same goes for any standalone router as well. Longer (Cat 6 minimum) Ethernet cables can be purchased to move this mesh gateway to a better position. Any extender mesh node should be located approximately halfway between the Gateway mode and the dead zone. These apply to each standalone router or mesh node (Gateway & Extender(s)). Each eero must be:- Out in the open, not shut away in a cupboard. The location should be reasonably high and most certainly never on the floor and near the centre of your property, if possible. Never site any mesh Gateway or Extender nodes near:- Other electronic equipment (TVs, speakers, etc). Bluetooth devices (especially speakers) – they operate on the same Wi-Fi frequency (2.4GHz), which can cause signal problems for this band. House plants (with tightly packed soil in pots) can absorb or deflect Wi-Fi signals. Glass, mirrors or water tanks, etc. Do not expect Wi-Fi signals to pass through such objects. Large metal objects - radiators, for instance- will have the same effect on your Wi-Fi as mirrors. Boilers can absorb Wi-Fi signals like a sponge. Do not locate it in a kitchen due to the metal in any large appliances, such as washing machines or fridge freezers, etc. Do not assume that Wi-Fi signals will pass through these items either, as they normally contain metal. Do not block the Wi-Fi signals with large furniture, such as sofas and tables etc. Keep away from wireless doorbell pushes/speakers (not to be confused with video doorbells operating over Wi-Fi devices from manufacturers such as Ring, TP-Link or Reolink, etc). Do not locate them near any cordless phone base stations.     ... View more

Hi @Aberdeenacd @Mandisa-TT    From the Wireshark trace, I can confirm that the port mapping in your HG635 router has forwarded TCP port 554 to your PC, OK. There is no response, because obviously, you do not have this port open on your PC. Please reinstate the rule so that it points to your Tapo. So the router is not to blame. What I need to do now, is to investigate why this port is not reaching your camera on your local network. Please can you answer these questions:-   Does the camera appear in the HG635's  Home Network > LAN Devices > Manage Devices as an active device? If it does, did it appear in the listing automatically, or did you have to add it manually? How does it connect to the router? I assume via wireless? If the camera supports both Ethernet & wireless connections, is the port mapping rule on the HG635 pointing to the correct interface's MAC address? Does it connect directly to the router or via an extender of some sort? Please can you PM me the full IP configuration of this camera? I assume it has a DHCP Reserved IP address? Does the camera use randomised MAC addressing by any chance? ... View more

Hi @itzray41    If you would like to tell me exactly which make/model of router you have, I will give you full details on how to do it. All routers are different, which is why I need to know which one you have.     The information below is provided by TalkTalk. For confirmation, please contact @Lorrainef, the manager of the TalkTalk support staff on this forum. KeithFrench is one of our valued Community Stars and can help with a range of issues related to wireless and networking. At times, he may ask you to send him test results via a Private Message to help analyse/diagnose an issue. Although Keith does not work for TalkTalk, he very kindly shares his time and knowledge to help others. If you need further help or if we need to take any details such as personal information about your account, like phone numbers, account numbers, etc, one of the TalkTalk team will jump in and help out. ... View more

Hi @Bella2025    Those instructions were for the DG8041W, not the HG635. It was just that the DG8041W has stability issues and if you had that one, I would have asked TalkTalk to consider replacing it. The HG635 is even older, but does still works OK. If you wanted to get a new router, you could ask TalkTalk to replace it for you, but currently, you would probably have to pay for it. Currently, I do not see any technical reason to need a new router. When your contract is next up for renewal, it would make sense to ensure that they give you a new router.   As per my previous email, please can you try moving the 2.4GHz channel to 11 & see how it goes? To do this, log into the router & go to:-   Home Network > Wireless Settings > Advanced Settings   In the 2.4GHz section, change the channel there.   If it does fail again, please can you get me a snapshot from Wi-Fi Scanner at that time?   ... View more

Hi @Aberdeenacd @Mandisa-TT    I have the Wireshark trace & will respond when I get a response to a PM.   ... View more

Hi @JamesyD1    Whilst upgrading from FF500 to FF900 shouldn't give you a slower speed, there is no simple answer to this. To recitfy can require both a long & complex reply, so no apologies for this. The Full Fibre 500 or 900 packages often mean that customers do not achieve the speeds they expect (obviously around 500 or 900Mbps). Firstly, you typically do not need the fastest speed possible on just one device, but rather enough speed to accomplish your tasks without compromising performance across all devices. As an example:- Up to 15Mbps – basic online activities such as web browsing, emails and watching low-resolution videos. 15-50Mbps – HD video streaming and managing a small number of smart devices in the home. 50-100Mbps – 4K video streaming on one or two devices, online gaming, and supporting a limited number of smart devices in the home. 100Mbps or more – 4K video streaming on multiple devices and supporting a good number of smart devices around the home. However, I can help you achieve the fastest speeds possible on your devices. This is often not an issue with the design of these services, but rather the connection between these devices and the router. Your device must not be connected to the 2.4GHz Wi-Fi band; otherwise, it will never deliver such speeds. No other devices must be in use at the time of any speed tests, because Wi-Fi is a shared medium. This means that it works half-duplex (one direction at a time), device A transmits and receives its data separately. Then it is the turn of device B, followed by C, etc. The Wi-Fi network adapters in these devices often cannot deliver speeds as fast as the fibre service can. Take the example of some older Wi-Fi 5 (802.11ac) adapters, which might work at speeds up to 433Mbps only if used in a perfect wireless environment, which most homes are not. When an internet speed test is performed, the speed achieved is down to the slowest link in the chain, namely the 433Mbps Wi-Fi adapter. Speed tests in this case might achieve somewhere around 400Mbps or less. Older Ethernet connections can suffer as well. If a device only supports the 10/100Mbps standard, not 1000Mbps (1Gbps) or even the newer 2.5Gbps available on some desktop PCs, they are likely to only record 100Mbps on a speed test. To get close to the 500/900Mbps on a speed test, that device must either have a minimum of a 1Gbps Ethernet connection or, if wireless, a faster Wi-Fi adapter. This would be a higher specification Wi-Fi 5 (802.11ac) or Wi-Fi 6 (802.11ax) adapter. While Wi-Fi 6 is not designed to boost download speeds significantly, the new features will allow more connected devices. That said, faster speeds (up to 2.4Gbps) will be available if the environmental conditions in your property allow the use of a 160MHz channel bandwidth. Using 160MHz requires a very clean RF spectrum — a wide contiguous block without DFS radar activity or interference. To fully understand this requires detailed knowledge of channel allocation for it to work; otherwise, the router will fall back to an 80MHz channel bandwidth. Simply enabling 160MHz in the AP configuration is nowhere near enough. Currently, this means that it is very unlikely to work in the 5GHz Wi-Fi band, as all 160MHz channels cross into the DFS channel range (52 - 140); only the 6GHz band with Wi-Fi 6E or Wi-Fi 7 can be used. I would not recommend using multiple eero 6 units on the FF500 or 900 services. TalkTalk, before supplying the Wi-Fi Hub 3 for these packages, used to provide the eero Pro 6 for them. One reason is that the eero Pro 6 is tri-band (1 x 2.4GHz and 2 x 5GHz Wi-Fi bands), allowing the backhaul network (connection between eeros) to maintain a faster speed. The eero 6 would therefore probably need an Ethernet-connected backhaul rather than using wireless, if it is required to use these slower, dual-band eeros. It may also not switch data fast enough for the increased speed of these packages. There are some basic checks that you can do to ensure that your devices have the best chance of achieving these higher speeds:- Check that these devices are connected to the 5GHz Wi-Fi band, not the 2.4GHz band. If you have the eero Pro 6, then as many devices as possible should be using the 5GHz (High) band. Which eero Pro 6 (if applicable) is each device connected to? It should always be the gateway or closest/fastest extender node. The more extender nodes that you go through to get to the gateway, the slower the speed will always be. In fact, you will probably need to be connected to the gateway to have any chance of these speeds. Additionally, with the eero Pro 6, any device capable of a 2402Mbps link speed must be connected to the 5GHz (High) Wi-Fi band and use a 160MHz channel bandwidth, which is very unlikely to work due to environmental conditions. The 5GHz (Low) band is not as high a specification as the 5GHz (High) one. To aid with step 2 (again for eeros), is "Client Steering" enabled within the eero app, as well as "Local DNS Caching"? Have you checked for Wi-Fi interference, a topic that I can provide a lot of help with? ... View more

Hi @SirBarrons    Why have you turned Band Steering off? That is there to help you?   I can help with all aspects of Wi-Fi performance.   Slow speed, intermittent dropouts, breaks in the signal or no signal on some or all devices or no internet access might be caused by Wi-Fi interference from other local networks, which can also lead to a permanent reduction in speed. No ISP can be responsible for your local environment; this is mainly a byproduct of the popularity of Wi-Fi. Generally speaking, the 2.4GHz band suffers a lot more from interference than the much faster 5GHz band, but the 2.4GHz band can sometimes have a better range; however, this all depends on your local area. In other words, I offer a free, impartial analysis of your Wi-Fi network and will try to help you optimise your Wi-Fi connection. The next stage involves sending out a guide to help you get me some important diagnostic results so that I can analyse them for you and recommend changes to your router configuration to solve them. I only send this out to people who request it.       The information below is provided by TalkTalk. For confirmation, please contact @Lorrainef, the manager of the TalkTalk support staff on this forum. KeithFrench is one of our valued Community Stars and can help with a range of issues related to wireless and networking. At times, he may ask you to send him test results via a Private Message to help analyse/diagnose an issue. Although Keith does not work for TalkTalk, he very kindly shares his time and knowledge to help others. If you need further help or if we need to take any details such as personal information about your account, like phone numbers, account numbers, etc, one of the TalkTalk team will jump in and help out.     ... View more

Hi @Bella2025    There are two problems that I can see:- On the 2.4GHz band, you are currently using channel 3. In this band, you should only ever use channels 1, 6, or 11, as they are the only non-overlapping channels. The best channel is probably channel 11 currently. Although not a problem with Wi-Fi interference, your router is a Huawei, probably a DG8041W. If it is this router, then it does have firmware issues affecting stability. If you look in the user log in the router, are there any entries containing the text "kernel panic"? Log in to the router & go to:- Dashboard > See Internet Settings > Manage advanced settings > Advance Configuration > Maintenance Diagnostics > User Log   Was the snapshot taken at a time when the Wi-Fi was actually dropping?   ... View more

Hi @siphosethu-TT    This customer is not full fibre, please can you deal with it? ... View more