Device MAC ID

[VicF47]

Hi ! I have been a TT customer for several years and currently have a Fibre65 contract.

When I run a speed test on TT website I get 77 Mbps at the router, but when I run a test on the devices I get less than optimal performance.  Before I look at trying to improve performance I need to identify the devices.  Several of the devices are identified only by what I think is the MAC ID, e.g. "48:9E:BD:C3:E6:CB".  In that spefic case I have been able to identify that as my recently installed printer, but the remaining items in the list are a mystery and do not match the MAC ID of likley devices, e.g. iPhones, IPad, Android pad, etc. At some point in the past I was able to label devices with names that meant something to me - some of those are still displayed (others are redundant/removed), but I cannot now find a way in to edit the labelling.  

Q1>  How do I match the MAC ID with the physical device?

Q2> Is it possible to edit the labelling of the devices with names that mean something as opposed to the MAC ID

TIA Vic

[KeithFrench]

Hi @VicF47 

I cannot give you any guarantees about Wi-Fi reception as there are so many variables, particularly in how the signal reflects all over a property, sometimes in the most unexpected ways. The 266 is not only dual-band, but it also supports Wi-Fi 6 capable. As this 802.11ax operates on either 2.4 or 5GHz this can give outstanding speeds even on the 2.4GHz band. In my garden in the summer, I previously had non-existent WiFi on either band. Now with the 266 at the front of the house, I can easily get 75M download speed on my laptop.

[VicF47]

Hi Keith, sorry for the delay in responding to your previous post - life gets in the way sometimes!

So, I have finally got round to re-installing the tp-Link extender, but it has proved to be a waste of time and has not shown any improvement over the previous 2.4GHz set-up.  This may be because I mis-read your post and did plug the tp-link adaptor into the power strip.  I realise now that you were talking about the router and the ONT box, and that is something I could try, but I don't think it is worth it on the basis of the results achieved.

• To get the signal I have had to rest the Wireless Mode of the AC-56 adaptor in Device Manager to 'Auto'
• I already get a '5 bar' wireless signal strength direct from the router with the 2,4GHz band on channel 6, albeit relatively slow speeds (about 45Mbps download);
• The tp-Link device only works at 2.4GHz using 802.11 b/g/n protocols and currently auto selects channel 4. (probably suspect to overlapping interference from the strong signals previously identified on Channel 1, as well as from Channel 6)
• I can get '5 bar' signal strength on the tp-Link device, but the download speed is only in the order of 10-12 Mbps
• When I reset the AC-56 adaptor to use 802.11 ac I get a '2 bar' signal strength on the 5 GHz band auto selected, currently, to channel 108 with download speeds of about 70 Mbps.

On the basis of the testing I did last weekend it looks as though the maximum speed that I can get on the 2.4 GHz band is about 45 Mbps.  Can I expect any more by using the current range extender?.

I think I am just as well sticking with the 2-bar signal strength and the 70Mbps download speeds on the 5 GHz band..  If I start getting signal strength issues I will look at the Sagemcom F@ST 266 device that you mentioned previously.  I assume that this will work on the 5 GHz band?

Regards, Vic

[KeithFrench]

Hi Vic,

So long as you use them in two pairs, so as they each take up an Ethernet port on the router, that will be fine.

[VicF47]

Hi Keith,

Thanks for that info'.  I understand what you are saying.  I have always been puzzled about the recommendation not to plug the router into an extension.  I suppose they mean an extension to the data/ethernet cable. Just one follow-up issue: I mentioned previously that I have D-link powerline adaptors for TalkTalk TV. They have a power socket integrated into the body of the device.  Can I plug the tp-Link adaptor into that or would there be a conflict. The signal is going to be sent around the same power cuircuit wherever I plug it in.

Vic

[KeithFrench]

Hi Vic,

The router & ONT does not matter if they are in power strips at all, they just need power. The extender is different because not only does it need power, but it also sends the PLA data signals over the wiring. For best results, they should always be directly in a wall outlet. That said, they often do work in power strips, but the speed between the two units may be reduced a bit.

[VicF47]

Hi Keith,

Thanks again for your support.

I have thought about re-installing the WiFi extender a bit more and I think I will have to put it on the back burner for a while. Now that I have the ONT box I am short of power sockets near the router. Previously I had the tp_Link device plugged into that socket, but I see from the user manual that they recommend plugging directly into a socket rather than a power strip, which is my only option at present.

Having said that I already have the router plugged into a power strip and it seems to work OK.

Is there a difference between plugging into a power strip and plugging into a multi-outlet adaptor - that might be my next alternative.

Regards,

Vic

[KeithFrench]

Hi Vic,

When set up correctly they should use the same SSID & password as the router, the idea is that your network is extended, not a different one to various parts of the house. Whilst I have not used the TP-Link product itself, I am sure that I can help you with anything to do with it. Rather than spend money, it is always worth revisiting this WiFi Extender.

[VicF47]

Hi Keith,

I forgot to mention in previous post that I also use D-Link Powerline adaptors with the TalkTalk TV.  I take it that this should not conflict with the tp-link kit since both have wired connections to router.  Also I note that the Tp-link device want to work on 2.4GHz. Does this have any impact on the fact that I have optimized the wireless adaptors to use the 5 GHz band?

Vic

[VicF47]

Hello, Keith

Thanks for your comments about extending my network.

A few years ago I did buy an extender kit.  The TT product was unavailable at the time so I purchased a tp-Link AV 600 extender kit. As you say in your post it works on powerline technology and although I followed the Quick Set-up Guide looking at the user manual on their web site this evening I am not entirely convinced that I completed the set up.  I got the varoius green light on the extender OK and it showed up in the Wireless adaptor manager, but I seem to recall that it used the same SSID as the router. 

There certainly appeared to be an improvement in the signal strength shown in the manager, but I started to get various 'conflicts' as though the pc and printer didn't know whether to connect to the router or the extender.  Every time I wanted to print a document, Windows told me the printer was offline and I ended up going through all sorts of troubleshooting procedures to get it online again.  This usually involved cycling the power on the pronter and restarting the router.- usually the print queue was then processed. 

I later discovered that somehow I had managed to get duplicate copies of the printer and with hindsight probably all I need to do was select the copy of the printer that was actually online!  I never discovered whether this was anything to do with the extender or not, but when trying to remove the duplicate copy of the printer I came across a recommendation not to attached the printer to an extender.  I am not sure that I was trying so to do but to avoid any issues I disconnected both the powerline adaptor and extender, if only to se what difference it made.  About this time I upgraded my TalkTalk package, the printer power unit failed and I replaced the whole printer and I forgot all about connectivity issues until the recent problems following the future fibre upgrade.

Are you familiar with the tp-Link AV 600 (TL PA4010 powerline adaptor and TL-WPA4220 extender)? Do you think it worth trying to re-install the kit? Can you offer any advice or things to watch out for?

Regards,

Vic

[KeithFrench]

Hi @VicF47 

Where signal strength is concerned yes some form of extender or even better a mesh network would help. However, with a mesh, each node within the mesh must be positioned where it can receive a good enough signal from the router (now part of the mesh). Extenders can be OK, but because the connection back to the router is via powerline technology, both units must be connected to the same electrical ring circuit. TalkTalk used to market one of these, but it has been discontinued in favour of the newer product mentioned below.

It might interest you to know, that TalkTalk has launched a new product which they are calling the "Sagemcom F@ST 266 Wi-Fi Booster". This is a clever unit, when combined with the Sagemcom F@ST 5364 or 5464 (Wi-Fi Hub 2) routers, it forms a mesh network. This improves the WiFi coverage within a property, thus boosting the signal strength.

You can currently purchase one from Customer Services, or by buying directly from the TalkTalk store. However, as yet it is not advertised in the store for some reason.

I have been using one for quite a few months now and am very impressed with it.

[VicF47]

Hi Keith,

Thanks for all your help regading Wireless Interference and getting my system optimised.

I now have as good connection speeds as I can hope for with current TalkTalk package, but there remains one issue in my mind concerning Signal Strength.

My desktop PC is not in the ideal position relative to the router and although I have a connection with good speeds the WLAN manager shows only 2 bars signal strength.  How relevant is this?.  Does it indicate the possibility of dropping the connection? Is there any potential benefit in using a WiFi Booster/Range Extender?

Regards,

Vic

[KeithFrench]

Thanks @Karl-TalkTalk 

[Karl-TalkTalk]

Hi @KeithFrench 

Optimisation should be off now.

Karl.

[KeithFrench]

I am currently dealing with @VicF47 with analyser screenshots etc. @Michelle-TalkTalk @Debbie-TalkTalk @Karl-TalkTalk please can one of you disable WiFi Optimisation on this router?

[KeithFrench]

Currently, I do not think that City Fibre supports VoIP, although it was due to by now. The phone line may stay over the old line for the time being. That said, I have seen a thread saying that they do now support it.

You should have been provided with a new router, although the 5364 will work, when your phone line moves over to VoIP over the FTTP, you will need that. Probably best to start a new thread to query that.

[VicF47]

Hi Keith,

Power management issue solved.  I had forgotton that the desktop PC was originally purchased for my wife to use and she is set up as the Adminstrator. Although I have administrator rights (??) when I opened device manager to look at the properties of the adaptor it does not give a Power Management tab, but when I logged in as my wife the tab became visible. So I have now set the option so that the PC is not allowed to turn off the device.

I wonder if this is the issue with Netspot. It looks as though the Free Edition was only installed for me as the User, No short cut on wife's desktop and searching for it only brought up an installation option for the full version, so I will reinstall the free edition as Administrator and see if that works.

Regards, Vic

[VicF47]

Hi Keith, 

Thanks for the feedback.

Yes, we are now live with the FTTP, but not without issues.  There appears to be a fault on the line which TT are progressing.  This appears to be affecting my transmission speeds and may be why the speeds I recorded last night were so low.  I need to wait for TT to sort this out and say the issue is complete before delving any further.

Thanks for confirming about the phone base station which is now located upstairs in my office well away from the router.  However, your comments about pluging in to the router raise a couple of interesting points. Fisrtly, the CityFibre engineer did not remove or even disconnect any of the pre-existing cableing.  Now that FTTP appears to be up and running I have disconnected the cabelling from the BT Master socket to the Router.  The only thing attached to the BT Master socket now is the phone extension cable which is hard wired into the box. Secondly, you seem to be implying that TT should have supplied me with a different router.  I am still using the black Sagecom device that I have been using for the past few years (I take it that this what you mean by the 5364.)  TT have not sent me any other router for use with FTTP. Do I need one oris the 5364 adequate?

Re: wireless adaptor and power management: I will check the driver situation and let you know.

Re: WiFi Interference, I have found your PM and followed the link to download the guide.  I will take me a while to go through that, but I will get back to you later.

Many Thanks for your help

Regards Vic (by the way had you cottoned on to the fact that my surname is the same as yours!)

[KeithFrench]

Hi Vic,

No, the phone base station does not have to be in the master socket, it can be in any socket. If you have finally gone over to FTTP, the 5364 won't allow the phone to be connected to the new FTTP at all. For that, you need either the Hub 2 (5464), where it plugs into the phone port on the back (covered with tape to start with) or the Eero router and Grandstream ATA, either of which TalkTalk should have supplied. If you get the choice I would go for the Hub 2. Just try & keep the base station then so that is not right next to the router.

The desktop PC where the USB attached WiFi network adapters do not have a Power Management tab, makes me think you are not using the correcting drivers for them.

I wouldn't worry about the mirrors or radiator, as they are a reasonable distance from the router. This then leaves WiFi interference to be checked.

I will PM you a link for a guide of mine on Wi-Fi interference & initially look at the section called "Are you suffering from interference – prove it first". This section includes full details of Wi-Fi analysers that I recommend for Windows, Windows phone, Android and Apple operating systems. However, I have no way of testing the Apple product. Do not worry about interpreting the results, I will do that for you.

Please post the screenshots that I have requested in my guide (no photos please they can be difficult to read as text can get out of focus when zoomed in), from the analyser you are using (also in my attached guide). Please ensure that the analyser window is maximised (if Windows) before taking the screenshots & upload them via the "Insert Photos" button (in a mobile browser it's the picture icon) on the post editor's toolbar with the Size parameter set to Large. If they are too small, I will not be able to read them & although I can enlarge them, this puts the text out of focus. If you prefer PM them to me. If you do PM me, then please add a link in there to this thread, so that I can find it easily.

[VicF47]

Thanks Keith,

I have heard most of this before, but achieving it is difficult.

The cupboard issue doesn't seem to make a difference to the laptop, at least. Speed at the device varies throught the day from about 45 to 50 Mbps. Taking the router out of the cabinet and placing the laptop close up doesn't seem to show any significant improvement.  By the way laptop is still running 64bit OS Windows 7 Home Premium + SP1

1. The phone issue is interesting.  How far away should the base station be (bearing in mind that I have a pre-filtered  BT Master Socket that has sockets for the phone line and the broadband)? Does the base station actually need to be plugged in to the master socket itself.  I have an upstairs extension wired into the Master Socket (i.e. hard wired not plug-in cable) and plugging in the base station to the extension appears to work.
2. No TV in same room as router (but D-Link for TV signal plugged in to router)
3. No loudspeakers nearby
4. No computer monitors nearby
5. No other electrical appliances nearby (except temporarily - vacuum cleaner, etc.)
6. No Bluetooth devices nearby
7. Mirrors - that could be an issue - high level, facing router approx 2m away and above router.
8. No fishtanks, etc.,
9. Radiator just below mirror so 2m away from router.
10. USB Wireless Adaptors:
    LAPTOP: Everything I said about Plug-in USB Wireless adaptor for laptop is rubbish. Just checked device manager and the Netgear A6150 USB 2.0 device is Disabled! Intel Centrino (R) N100 is "working properly". Does this need to have the Power Management adjusted so that the device is not turned off?  Device manager also shows Microsoft Virtual WiFi Mini Adaptor & Adaptor #2 - not sure what these are for but both are shown as working properly - could there be an issue with conflicts?
    OFFICE DESKTOP: (Windows 10) has ASUS USB-AC56 802.11ac wireless adaptor enabled and working properly.  This plugs into a USB socket at rear of 'mini tower' format and has a lead (about 1m long) so that the receiver, with and adjustable aerial can sit on top of the PC 'in open air'. There is no Power Management tab in the Properties sheet for this device.   Also shown is a Realtek RTL8188CE Wireless LAN 802,11n PCI-E NIC which is also shown as working properly. Again no Power Management tab for this device.  The USB Root Hubs are self powered with options.

So, I have moved the phone, placed the router outside the cabinet, updated the power management for the Wireless adaptor in the Laptop, rebooted and run a speed test.  In the 'usual' location with the wall, mirror and radiator between the laptop and router I got 77 Mbps at the router and 47 Mbps at the device.  I moved the laptop to between the wall/radiator/mirror and the router and got 41 Mbps! (first attempt), 32 Mbps (2nd attempt) and 31 Mbps (third attempt), but I am not convinced that these are true - it took a very long time for the results to come up, so is there a processing issue with the laptop?  Itried running the speed test from my desktop and it recorded a speed at the laptop of 43 Mbps and at the desktop PC at 61 Mbps which is labels as "Working as Expected".

In running these test I notice that on the web page where it usually displays my home phone number it now also shows an FTTP number - so I am going to look at that aspect next.

Regards, Vic

[KeithFrench]

If you have the router shut away in a cupboard, that will certainly be no good. Before getting into WiFi interference, which isn't just about walls etc, these are my guidelines about router location, in case anything can be improved. Then when things are as good as they are going to get (even if that ends up meaning there is no change), I'll help with WiFi interference.

This is the best router location, but obviously, this is not always practical & a compromise has to be reached.

The general rule is to keep it away from:-

1. Cordless phone (DECT) base stations
2. TVs
3. Loudspeakers & any sub-woofers (including those used with a PC)
4. Computer monitors
5. Electrical appliances – they often transmit their own signals that can interfere with Wi-Fi signals.
6. Bluetooth devices – they operate on the same Wi-Fi frequency as your broadband, which can cause signal problems.
7. Mirrors – they actually reflect Wi-Fi signals, stopping them from passing through walls and reflecting them back into the room.
8. Anything containing large amounts of water – things like fish tanks and boilers can absorb Wi-Fi signals like a sponge.
9. Large metal objects – radiators, for instance, will have the same effect on your Wi-Fi as mirrors. If you have a tower PC case with an internal WiFi card, the metal of the case can block signals to & from the antennae if they are located behind the tower case.
10. If you are using a USB Wi-Fi adapter, use a USB socket on the front of the PC, as there is more open space around it than at the rear. If a USB extension cable is used, try to ensure that it is fairly short, so as the power from the computer is not attenuated. Long extension cables can cause the adapter to not have enough power from the computer to work correctly.

As a very general rule, the signal travels best on the same floor as the router and to the floor below. It does not always propagate very well to a floor above the router. However, with more modern routers, if they have a higher specification, they may be able to get the signal upstairs OK, but your ability to receive it also depends on your device's network adapter being of a higher specification, as well as its age.

Where USB or PCIe-connected WiFi adapters are concerned, power management is best disabled if running in Windows to keep a reliable Wi-Fi connection working at full speed. Once having made the changes outlined below, it is probably best to restart the PC.

To do this in Windows 10 or 11, open Device Manager and expand Network adapters. Then right-click your WiFi card & select Properties. Next, click on the Power Management tab and untick Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power. If the adapter is connected via USB, then expand the USB section in Device Manager and the same option can be found in the Power Management tab in most Root Hubs and USB Controllers. Untick it in there as well.